See the build guide for the hardware information and assembly instructions.
The normal case file contains the design for a flat edge case, while the rounded file is the design for rounded edges. (I've only built the rounded version)
There are a total of 11 layers of 3mm thick acrylic including the feet. For the top layers that have clear windows, the windows are held in place by friction, so sizing might be a bit tricky. I also used the natural tappering of the arcylic edges to "lock" the windows in place. It might be possible to use few dabs of acrylic cement (ie. Weld-On #4) to hold it in place, but I have not tried this.
The layers should be cut out of 3mm thick acrylic. The actual thickness of the acrylic I used was about 2.8mm.
| Layer | Description |
|---|---|
| 11d Top Clear Solenoid | Clear top for solenoid edition |
| 11c Top Solenoid Windows | Windows solenoid edition |
| 11b Top Alternate Windows | Windows for alternate top |
| 11b Top Alternate | Alternate top with windows |
| 11 Top Clear | Standard clear top |
| 10 Top Layer | Layer #10 |
| 9 Top Layer | Layer #9 |
| 8 Layer PCB Top | Layer that goes right above the PCB |
| 7 Bottom Spacer | Layer #7 |
| 6 Bottom Spacer | Layer #6 |
| 5 Bottom | Keyboard bottom |
| Feet 4 | Layer #4 (largest foot layer) |
| Feet 3 | Layer #3 |
| Feet 2 | Layer #2 |
| Feet 1 | Layer #1 (smallest foot layer) |
You do not need to cut all the #11 layers. What you need will depend on which case you're building. Follow this guide below.
- 11 Top Clear
- 11b Top Alternate
- 11b Top Alternate Windows
- 11d Top Clear Solenoid
- 11b Top Alternate
- 11c Top Solenoid Windows
Notes: I had to cut a small hole in the window for the solenoid because it was too tall to fit inside the case without it. The windows are secured in place by friction only, so the sizing is important. I adjusted the kerf for my laser cutter, so your mileage may vary. If the fitment is too loose, it may just fall out, but I think a few dabs of acrylic cement around the perimeter of the window may hold it in place. If you're unsure about the window fitment, I'd suggest going with the all-clear top to be safe.
There's also a spacer file which I used to cut a ~0.5mm spacer to go in between the PCB and solenoid (for the solenoid edition). This was helpful for a few reasons: it dapens the sounds, it allows me to use the screws I had, which would've been too long otherwise, and it prevents the solenoid piston from hitting the boot button. The spacer doesn't have to be exact. I cut mine out of a cracker box. Cutting one out with scissors and punching small holes for the screws will work just fine as well.
The plate foam (between switch plate and PCB) should be 2mm thick, and the bottom foam (under the PCB) should be 1mm thick. There's not that much room inside the case, so going too thick may cause the case the bulge. To thin, and the PCB might shift around a bit, but probably not noticeable. I used EVA foam, which works really well with laser cutters.
| Layer | Description |
|---|---|
| Plate Foam | 2mm foam (between switch plate and PCB) |
| Bottom Foam A | 1mm foam (underneath PCB) |