Hardware
Overview
The opc has 3 main subcomponents:
- Raspberry Pi Zero W, the brains of the operation
-
Display/Button Hat & Power Assembly A. WaveShare sh1106 128x64 OLED w/ Buttons (opc doesn’t support the 128x128…yet)…$16.99 1. A display board built for the Pi (you can make a tiny gameboy), with some nifty buttons that'll take care of navigating the opc's menus. 2. All the wiring is done here, so you won't have to solder directly onto the Pi (besides the header pins). Also adds the benefits of making it easy to switch out the components.
B. Adafruit Powerboost 1000c …$19.39 1. This boosts the output of the 3.7v lipo to the 5v ~1a that the Pi needs(sometimes, mostly draws ~100mA), and also takes care of charging the battery
C. On/off Switch (Any switch will do, but I used one from this pack)…$7.29 1. Every good gadget needs an on/off switch!
D. mUsb breakout…$5.29 1. I could have used the musb on the 1000c, but it couldn't quite line up for any of the layouts I tried
-
A battery to power it all (I use this 2000mAh lipo)…$10.99 A. You can use any lipo battery(make sure the pins are right before you plug it in!), I use this one because it's 2000mAh & it perfectly fits the footprint of the pi. With this battery I'm getting 5+[confirm] hours of runtime.
Components List
- Raspberry Pi Zero W (includes power supply) $22.99
- SanDisk 32GB microSD card $13.33
- Waveshare 128x64 OLED w/ Buttons $16.99
- Adafruit Powerboost 1000c $19.39
- On/Off Switch $7.29
- mUsb Breakout $5.29
- Uxcell 2000mAh lipo $10.99 Total $96.27
Assembly
Start with soldering the header pins onto the raspberry pi. This should be old hat for you if you've ever done a Pi zero project before. Make sure to solder the short end of the header pins to the pi so that the long ends are sticking up.
[pic of the described]
Software
- Bake sd card with raspbianlite
- Get connected! WiFi
- Samba
- Opc install (clone from git here0)
Display/Power Assembly
Start with gluing the mUsb breakout to the top of the board (number)
Next cut your wires to length and start with the 2 soldered directly onto the display (5V & GND)
After that, glue down the powerboost board. I'd recommend laying down a piece of electrical tape between the two boards to make sure you're not getting any unintended connections. I like to use a few globs of sticky tack to hold the components in place and then push the hat and the pi together to make sure everything lines up before gluing
Then, solder the powerboost pins to the mUsb breakout and to the wires you earlier soldering. I recommend intermittent testing between each connection, using a multimeter or just connecting things and seeing if they light up (should be blue when powered by the mUsb, and your pi should turn on if you've soldered everything correctly)
Lastly, glue down the switch. Everything will work without the switch, it's just a little nicer on everybody if you don't have to pull out the battery terminal all the time. Once again, the sticky thing is super helpful here. You'll have to remove a ribbon connector from the Pi for the switch to fit snugly [detail].
At this point you should be able to sandwich the two components together and get to business. Test your wiring by plugging a hot mUsb cable into the breakout board and seeing if your Pi blinks green. We haven't loaded an OS yet, but you'll be able to test if you've soldered correctly. Once we set up the software & GUI, you'll be able to see the display come alive.
Usage Tape list Sample list Transferring,renaming files
Bonus Contributing Needs/down the pipe Case design (s/o) Easy dist Midi stuff Audio processing Forum link