Preparing for the Dufourspitze (Dufour Peak), the highest summit in Switzerland, is a serious undertaking. It's a challenging climb that requires technical skills, high-altitude endurance, and experience with glacier travel and crevasse rescue. Climbing in the Glarus and Graubünden regions provides excellent preparation options with routes that range from alpine rock climbing to mixed glacier routes, allowing you to build the necessary skills. Here are some recommended climbs:

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1. Piz Medel (3,210 m) - Graubünden

• Approach: Moderate to Difficult
• Route: Glaciated climb with an alpine ridge
• Elevation Gain: ~1,400 m from Medelserhütte SAC
• Description: This climb offers a mix of glacier travel and a rocky summit ridge, which is great for practicing similar techniques to those needed on the Dufourspitze. The climb is typically done in a day from the Medelserhütte and provides exposure to crevassed terrain, similar to what you'll encounter on the Dufourspitze.

2. Piz Kesch (3,417 m) - Graubünden

• Approach: Moderate to Difficult
• Route: Glacier and rock, with mixed sections
• Elevation Gain: ~1,300 m from Keschhütte SAC
• Description: As the highest peak in eastern Switzerland, Piz Kesch is a popular training peak for technical and high-altitude alpine climbing. The route requires glacier navigation and scrambling along a rocky ridge, with a good mix of rock and ice. The altitude and mixed terrain are excellent for Dufourspitze preparation.

3. Piz Buin (3,312 m) - Graubünden

• Approach: Moderate
• Route: Glaciated approach with moderate rock climbing
• Elevation Gain: ~1,100 m from the Wiesbadener Hütte
• Description: The classic route on Piz Buin has some exposure and requires good crampon and ice axe technique. It’s a well-frequented climb with glacier sections that provide a good introduction to managing roped glacier travel. This ascent is popular and a good choice for conditioning for higher, glaciated peaks.

4. Tödi (3,614 m) - Glarus

• Approach: Difficult
• Route: Long glacier approach with rock/snow ridge at the summit
• Elevation Gain: ~1,800 m from the Fridolinshütte
• Description: Tödi is the highest peak in the Glarus Alps and is an excellent endurance and technical challenge. The route to Tödi involves a long glacier approach with crevassed areas and some mixed rock and snow climbing near the summit. This climb will help you practice long days in technical terrain, similar to the Dufourspitze.

5. Clariden (3,267 m) - Glarus

• Approach: Moderate
• Route: Glacier ascent with some sections of snow/rock scrambling
• Elevation Gain: ~1,200 m from the Klausen Pass or from the Clariden Hut
• Description: The climb to Clariden has large glacier fields with some crevasses, which makes it a great place to practice crevasse rescue skills. The summit is reachable through snow and ice slopes, providing a good simulation for the types of snowy and icy conditions encountered on the Dufourspitze.

6. Piz Bernina (4,049 m) - Graubünden

• Approach: Very Difficult
• Route: Glaciated with exposed ridge, including the Biancograt route (classic mixed climb)
• Elevation Gain: ~1,300 m from Tschierva Hut or Marco e Rosa Hut
• Description: The Biancograt route on Piz Bernina is an advanced climb with significant exposure and requires solid mixed climbing skills. If you’re looking for a final, serious training climb before the Dufourspitze, this route on Piz Bernina has steep ice, rock, and an exposed ridge similar to the terrain on the Dufourspitze.

7. Bifertenstock (3,419 m) - Glarus

• Approach: Difficult
• Route: Glacier, ice and mixed climbing with rock scrambling at the summit
• Elevation Gain: ~1,400 m from the Bifertenhütte
• Description: The Bifertenstock has a challenging glacier ascent and some technical sections that will prepare you well for the mixed conditions of the Dufourspitze. This climb combines ice, snow, and rock, providing practice for dealing with the varied alpine conditions on the Dufourspitze.

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Additional Training Tips

1. Focus on Endurance and Altitude Acclimatization: Many of these peaks provide great altitude training, which will help your body prepare for the thinner air on the Dufourspitze (4,634 m).
2. Practice Glacier and Crevasse Rescue: The Dufourspitze has extensive glacier travel, so becoming proficient in crevasse rescue is crucial.
3. Refine Your Ice and Rock Climbing Skills: Mixed climbs like Piz Bernina’s Biancograt or Tödi are ideal for honing technical skills.
4. Consider Multi-Day Trips: If possible, practice longer, multi-day outings to build stamina, manage nutrition, and optimize your gear setup.

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These climbs in Glarus and Graubünden regions provide a variety of challenges that will strengthen your alpine skills and endurance, setting you up for success on the Dufourspitze. Good luck, and climb safely!