Filametrix Mod

This is a mod of the Voron Stealthburner which adds a filament cutting possibility!

Main Body

Main Body for old motor plate of Clockwork2

• SB_CW2_Main_Body_Cutting_with_2xD2F_ECAS
• SB_CW2_Main_Body_Cutting_with_D2F_ECAS
• SB_CS2_Main_Body_EBB_ECAS_D2F "CW2 main body for the ERCF w/ ECAs, bearing switch, and SB2209 Canbus mods" Thanks to juliusjj25

Main Body for new motor plate of Clockwork2

Adapting to recent changes in the Clockwork2 design (July 2023) - Left new / Right old

A step with file the material removed of the motor plate is available here Cutoff new motor plate

Not all main bodys are converted yet. Use the old motor plate if your main body is not listed below.

A more compact version using a M6 bowden fitting instead of the ECAS is also available for some main bodys. Additonally, a more rigid latch is available for the M6 version. (ECAS version of the latch is compatible with all M6 main bodys.)

• ECAS mount

  • SB_CW2_new_motor_plate_Main_Buddy_Cutting_with_ECAS

• M6 bowden mount

  • SB_CW2_new_motor_plate_Main_Buddy_Cutting_with_M6

Support for LGX Lite

https://www.printables.com/de/model/576122-lgx-lite-stealthburner-filament-cutter

tommorox234 has created the main body for the LGX Lite. Feel free to get in contact with him via printables. Thank you :)

Support for StealthOrbiter

• ORBITERMOUNT_STANDARD_PG7_V2_Cutting

by emjay276

Printhead

Update for Phaetus Dragon UHF and Phaetus Dragon UHF mini

• SB_Dragon_UHF_cutting_TH_Front or SB_Dragon_UHF_mini_cutting_TH_Front
• SB_Dragon_UHF_cutting_TH_Rear or SB_Dragon_UHF_mini_cutting_TH_Rear
• Knife_holder_Dragon_UHF

by emjay276

Update for Bambu Hotend has been added.

• SB_Bambu_cutting_Printhead_back
• SB_Bambu_cutting_Printhead_front or SB_Bambu_cutting_Printhead_front_2
• Bambu_Adapter

Thanks to "Jakub Kadlec" from Facebook :)

Update for Voron Revo Hotend

• SB_RevoVoron_back
• SB_RevoVoron_front

by Russell Gower - NOTE currently untested!!

Update for Rapido Hotend

• see folder

say thank you to juliusjj25 :)

Update for Slice engingeering mosquito hotend

https://www.printables.com/de/model/614813-filametrix-mod-for-slice-engingeering-mosquito-hot

say thank you to "https://www.printables.com/de/@MakeAUsername_285162"

Motivation

I was looking at the ERCF MMU for several month now. What always kept me from starting the project were the discussions about issues and problems with filament tip forming. Suddenly a new company showed us how they do it quite reliable. They just cut the filament. Further motivated and inspired by the design of @pure100kim who has built the ERCF_Filament_Cutting_MOD I started to build my own version of it.

See how it works

Proof of concept 1: https://youtube.com/shorts/HOMG8cVk_U4

Proof of concept 2: https://youtu.be/tTcrxttyths

Filametrix in action: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tfMZWQRqtvY

Good to know

Please be aware:

• We will need to use one of the ADXL mounting threads
• Depending on the setup and position of the cutting point we will most probably not lose any build volume
• For the main body i remixed the ECAS version from Alexanderor

What you need

Print list

Toolhead

• 1x SB (hotend name) cutting Printhead back
• 1x SB (hotend name) cutting Printhead front
• 1x SB Main body Cutting with ECAS (or with sensor)
• 1x SB motor plate (as Stealthburner has seen a small update the newest plate does not fit anymore. So please use the one from this git)
• 1x SB latch ECAS
• 1x Cutting arm
• 1x Knife holder

Cutting point on gantry

• 1x depressor mount
• 1x depressor

Cutting point on gantry with servo

• tbd...

Parts list - considering you already have a Stealthburner with Dragon Hotend

Toolhead:

• Loctite
• 1x M3 nut (DIN934; ideally a countersunk tool to modify the nut for proper filament insertion)
• 2x M3 washer (0.5mm)
• 1x M3x18 SHCS (it repleaces the top left M3x25 SHCS from the SB-Cover mount)
• 2x Voron heat inserts
• 1x M3x18 FHCS (counter sunk screw)
• 1x M3x8 SHCS
• 1x M2.5x16 SHCS (15-18mm works)
• Spring 0.4x4x15 or alternative of ballpoint pen (L=15mm; D<=4,5mm) (I've ordered some for testing, to have a "defined" spring)
• Type 4 metal hobby blades (we will cut it to length) Link Amazon link, these need glue to be held in but work fine (USA) Link
• 

Cutting point on gantry

• 1x M3x16 BHCS
• 1x M3 nut
• 1x M3x8 FHCS
• 2x M3 SHCS (Lengths: 6mm - no backers, 10mm - titanium backers, 12mm - MGN9 rails)
• 2x Voron heat inserts

Assembly

Cutting arm

Cut skalpel to length l=26mm

Result

Insert skalpel into knife holder

Insert the skalpel (which is cut to 26mm) into the knife holder until you see it in the little hole. Use pliers to push it into the knife holder. Some force should be needed as the skalpel should stay in place due to the "pressfit". If that's not the case add some glue.(Depelding on skalpel tolerances)

Put knife holder into cutting arm

The M2.5x15 screw is directly screwed into the plastic of the knife holder. The tip of the screw should be flush with the cutting arm or no more than 0.1-0.3mm above it. Check the orientation of the hole for the M2.5 screw in the knife holder. It needs to be on the bottom side.

!! The knife holder must move up and down without friction in the cutting arm but shoult not have a lot play. Maybe some grinding is needed. !!

Add heat inserts

Tip here for the heat set that goes above the cutter I would suggest drilling the threads out with a ~2.5mm drill bit. On the hotend holder side below the cutter make sure you flare out the PTFE tube to help guide the filament.

Main body

SB cutting Printhead back

Depressor - one on either end, end with ribs should be flush with surface below ribs with no plastic sticking up past surface

Finished cutting point assembly should look like this

Note: for titanium backers, the backer should be centered between belt clamps and the end of the depressor mount should be flush with the end of the backer. This will work for all backers with 10/20/40mm spacing with the furthest back hole 5-15mm from the end. Height of depressor should be adjusted to press in the depression on the cutting arm and the BHCS can be adjusted in and out for the right positioning and locked in place with the M3 nut.

I need some time to finalize assembly instructions. If you have questions you'll find me in discord "sorted#8941"

Code

The code only works with https://github.com/moggieuk/Happy-Hare If you haven't updated yet you really should.

Latest version provided by thisiscam

I added the option to push the filament tip back into the hotend

Copy additional.cfg to your printer config directory and include it in your printer.cfg below all of the mmu includes via [include additional.cfg]

In mmu_parameters.cfg:

set form_tip_macro: _MMU_CUT_TIP

set toolhead_extruder_to_nozzle and toolhead_sensor_to_nozzle to corresponding measured values of your toolhead.

set force_form_tip_standalone: 1

In additonal.cfg

You will need to adjust the parameters in addtional as well, like setting up your cutter location, speeds, etc. More information in the cfg file itself. set variable_output_park_pos: ... to the distance from the nozzle tip to the blade

Servo

If you are using a gantry servo, remove the hashtags related to "gantry_servo"s in this file.

If you want to support me

Optional Next location

The _MMU_CUT_TIP now has an option to move to a "next location" immediately after making the cut. For instance, set it to the purge tower's location from the slicer. The _SET_LOC_AFTER_TOOLCHANGE sets this location, and the _MMU_CUT_TIP macro will be responsible for traveling immediately after the cut but prior to the unload. See the orcaslicer's toolchange gcode two messages down as an example. If you don't plan to use it, it's safe to ignore this point.